December. Girls.

Elisa Balsamo

via CyclingTips

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Meanwhile in Japan

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LeicaM-944

via The Radavist

Yuki5

Yuki1

via C Speed

smile

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Eingeordnet unter 2016, Mädels mit Räder, Mob

Friday Merckx.

Look who’s trying to be Eddy.

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Letztens las ich in einer großen deutschen Radzeitschrift, ich glaube es war „Tour“ ein Interview mit Mark Cavendish. Bislang fand ich den eher unsympathisch: Immer am motzen und die Schuld auf andere schieben, wenn er verlor; wild auf den Lenker schlagen wenn im Sprint Zweiter; übertrieben „Ich bin der Größte“ Jubel beim Gewinn.  Wäre Mark Cavendish eine Frau, so würde ich sie als Zicke beschreiben. Vielleicht liegt es auch einfach daran, dass mich Cavendish an jemanden aus dem Radumfeld in Japan erinnert, den ich nicht besonders schätze.

Im Interview allerdings kommt er sehr vernünftig, reflektierend und authentisch rüber. Und dass er eine Brille trägt tut seinem Image ebenfalls sehr gut.

Der Mann hat aber 30 Etappensiege bei der Tour de France erzielt, vor ihm liegt nur noch, richtig Eddy Merckx mit 34 Siegen. Es ist nicht sein Job sympathisch zu sein, es ist seine Aufgabe ein sehr erfolgreicher Sportler zu sein bzw. zu werden. Dies muss man auseinander halten. Sportler wie Boris Becker, Lothar Matthäus oder Sandro Wagner waren (oder sind) auf ihrem Gebiet wirklich extrem gut, wirken aber im richtigen Leben überfordert (Becker), einfach nur doof und gehässig (Matthäus), oder sind nicht in der Lage ein einfaches Interview zu geben (Wagner). Ich denke,d as ist in Ordnung, wir müssen nicht von jedem alles verlangen, nur weil man berühmt wird. Letztendlich gewöhnt man sich an alles, sogar an den:

 

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Gierige Räder. Nikolaus Edition.

Blue Lug ist ein sehr cooler Radladen / Online Store in Osaka, Japan. Blug Lug baut sehr schöne originelle Räder, die mich inspirieren das eine oder andere auch zu versuchen.

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Blue Lug auf Flickr

Kimura Kranich

Eine weitere originelle und durchdachte Konzeption eines Rennrades von Yuji aus Berlin in Zusammenarbeit mit Raizin, einem japanischen Rahmenbauer.

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Einige Details, die mir besonders gut gefallen haben:

  • Scheibenbremsen vorne, aber Felgenbremse hinten.
  • Campa Veloce Komponenten, von den alle Aufdrucke entfernt wurden. Der Kenner sieht das und weiß: „Ah, Campagnolo Super Veloce. Wie cool!“ Der Nicht-Kenner sieht ein schönes, schlichtes Rad ohne Werbebedruckung.
  • Total aufwändige Führung von Brems- und Schaltzügen durch den Rahmen.
  • 3t Carvon Ergonovalenler. Ist nur in schwarz erhältlich, wurde für diese Aufbau im sichtbaren Teil in der Rahmenfarbe lackiert.
  • Diese Augen … Verzeihung, diese Muffen.

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via Klovesradeln

Affinity Deluxed

Darüber hatte ich bereits berichtet. Hier der Link zum Merchandise. Ich konnte nicht widerstehen und habe am Wochenende dort bestellt.

Passend dazu gibt es einen Track rahmen in Kooperation mit Affinity.

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Alleine schon der Rahmenständer ist großartig. Mit einem Preisschild von $ 2.500 ist der Rahmen aber leider jenseits von gut und böse. Oder sagen wir mal in einem Bereich, wo ich auch einen guten Lackierer hier fragen könnte, ob er mir einen Rahmen meiner Wahl so lackiert.

Cherubim Track Bike

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via The Radavist

 

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Eingeordnet unter 2016, Gierige Räder, Mob

Mavic Monthlery Rims

by Retrogrouch

I’m gearing up to begin another wheelbuilding project, and that means locating more classic components. I recently wrote about a nice set of hubs I’ll be using: a pair of Campagnolo Record hubs with the HiLo rear hub — 32  front, 36  rear. Now I have my rims picked out: a set of vintage new-old-stock Mavic Monthlery Legere tubular rims. I should state right from the beginning that these are not intended to be wheels for everyday use, and certainly not for commuting, or anything other than special wheels for a special bike to be ridden on nice roads on the best of days. Nothing to do with necessity, and nothing „practical,“ other than the desire to build something really unique and something that I would have drooled over in my youth.

I’ve always had good experiences building with Mavic rims, so that was a prime consideration as I was making a selection. And since I had decided I want to use NOS vintage instead of current production, I had made the job of locating suitable rims a bit more difficult. The fact that I needed to find a 32 and a 36-hole rim didn’t help either.

In the ’70s and early ’80s, Mavic’s Monthlery rims were among the company’s best tubular rims — with a polished aluminum finish, and made with double eyelets at each spoke hole for extra durability. They came in a few different variations for different applications, and the prices varied accordingly.

At the lower end of the Monthlery line was the Monthlery Route. These were about 22 mm wide and advertised at 420 grams. According to the Mavic catalog from the mid-80s, the Route was meant for OEMs (original equipment), training, cyclocross, or for „difficult“ road conditions. That weight puts them into clincher rim territory, but they were probably bomb-proof when built into a wheel by a competent builder.

From the 1980 Mavic catalog. (scan from Velo-Pages)

The Monthlery Pro was next, at 20 mm wide, and advertised as 395 grams (I believe 400 grams was probably typical in reality). These were a real mainstay rim for aftermarket wheels. Their weight was a little on the higher side for top-line racing wheels, but they were strong, reliable, and a good choice for a wide range of applications. If someone couldn’t afford separate wheels for training and racing, the Monthlery Pros were a really good way to go.

The Monthlery Legere („legere“ means „light“) was the same width as the Pro, but because of a slightly thinner-walled extrusion, they were advertised as being only 310 grams. Numerous sources claim the reality was somewhere between 330-340 grams. Mavic catalogs described them as „interesting for road racing. Excellent weight/resistance ratio.“ Obviously translated from French by someone with only a part-time experience with English. No doubt they meant something like „well-suited“ for road racing. But they did represent a good balance of strength and low weight.

The Legere was not the lightest thing going, however. There was another rim called the Extra Legere (advertised in a 1974 flyer as the Golden Monthlery) which was listed as weighing only 260 grams! I’ve seen sources that listed actual weight as somewhere between 270-280 grams. The Mavic Extra Legere, or Extra Light, would have competed directly with a couple of other rims of the day, the Super Champion Medaille d’Or (advertised 260 g), and the Fiamme Ergal Gold Label rims (advertised 280 g). I’ve never used the Fiamme Ergal rims, but there are numerous stories of them cracking or breaking at the spoke holes. In the latest issue of Bicycle Quarterly, Jan Heine actually describes them as having a tendency to shatter! I don’t know if that was hyperbole or not, but the cracking spoke holes was a common story. I have used the Super Champion Medaille d’Or – they were the first set of wheels I ever built, and despite my diminutive weight at the time (I was only 125 lbs at age 18) they needed constant truing. Was that because of my beginner-status as a wheelbuilder? Or because the rims were just too ridiculously light (probably a combination of the two) I don’t know, but at my age and current weight, I’m no longer so willing to sacrifice durability in order to shave a few extra grams.

Anyhow, I decided to go with the Legere for the reason that I wanted something light, but not stupid-light. I think they represent a good balance.

Now, looking for NOS vintage rims makes things a bit complicated. Searching eBay as well as online sellers who specialize in vintage bike parts, I found that availability seemed to be exactly in proportion to the weight of the rims. The OEM-level Monthlery Route is definitely the easiest to find. NOS examples seem to abound, with prices ranging from $80 – 130 per pair. The mid-level Pro is slightly less plentiful, but still available, and the going rate seems to be around $100 – 150 per pair for NOS. The Legere is pretty scarce. I had found a single 36-hole rim some time back for about $50, including shipping. It took a while before I could find a matching 32-hole for the front. Just out of curiosity, I’ve been searching for months for the 260 – 280 g. Extra Legere, and they simply don’t come up for sale. I’m not sure I’ve ever seen one.

This line of rims from Mavic did evolve over time. By the end of the ’70s, there were anodized versions available. The silver-anodized versions were labeled „Argent“ (which means silver) while gold-anodized were „Or“ (umm. . . gold) and the anodizing treatment was said to „improve the finished appearance and facilitate upkeep.“ In these anodized versions, the Legere model was re-named the Argent 10, and the Extra Legere was the Argent 7 (later Argent 8).

from VeloBase

In the early ’80s, dark gray hard-anodizing became all the rage, and the 400 gram Monthlery Pro formed the basis for the GP4, a popular all-round racing and training tubular rim. I can’t find confirmation of it, but I’m pretty sure that the „G“ stood for „Gris“ (gray) in reference to the dark gray hard anodized finish, and „P“ was probably „Pro.“ My second-ever wheelbuilding project used GP4 rims, and while they were probably overkill for my still-flyweight physique (at the time), I literally used to ride those wheels down stairs and bunny-hop uneven railroad tracks on a regular basis. I replaced a few headsets, but never had to re-true the wheels. Not even once. The Legere became the GL330 (Gris Legere 330 grams?) and the Extra Legere would have become the GEL280 (Gris Extra Legere 280 grams?). The ’84 Mavic catalog claimed that the hard anodizing increased the surface hardness by a factor of 10, and that it increased the rigidity of the rim. I am not aware that the supposed increase in rigidity was in any way noticeable or if it made the rims last any longer, but in the ’80s it definitely became the must-have fashion. What I decided I didn’t like, however, was that after only a few rides, the gray finish would start to wear off the sidewalls – and it never wears off evenly. For that reason more than any other, I still have a preference for standard non-anodized aluminum for rims. If it gets scratched or dull over time, you can always bring back the lustre with a little bit of aluminum polish on a soft rag.

By the way, there was an older Mavic rim with a similar name, but was not part of the same lineup. Some readers may recall a model called the Montlery (note the lack of the „h“ in the spelling) Championnat du Monde which was a pretty common OEM rim in the early ’70s. Several sources state that they were original equipment on early ’70s Schwinn Paramounts, for example. These were a single-eyelet rim that had knurled sidewalls (remember those?) that were supposed to improve braking, but generally just made the rims howl like banshees when stopping.

My pair of NOS Monthlery Legere rims ended up setting me back about $115. Without a doubt, that’s a lot higher than what these rims sold for when new, but current model Mavic Open Pro tubular rims generally sell for between $70 – 80 each, so that puts it into some perspective. And at about 330 grams (or so) each, the weight is lower than most aluminum rims made today – and even on par with a lot of carbon fiber rims costing much, much more.

When built up, these should be just the right thing for a vintage bike restoration, and another example of Old Is Good.

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Eingeordnet unter 2016, Bits&Pieces, Mob

Diese Augen ….

diese-augen

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von | 7. Dezember 2016 · 00:39

Winter. Nebel. Deich.

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Nachdem sich gestern mittag so etwas wie Frühling über Bremen andeutete, kam der Winter in der Nacht mit aller Macht zurück und verpasste der Landschaft eine Dosis Schockfrost.

Zu viel gutes Essen, noch mehr guter Rotwein und viele sehr schöne Gespräche bis tief in die Nacht und den Nebel bei unseren koreanischen Freunden führten zwangsläufig dazu, dass ich mich erst spät am Sonntag auf das Rad setze, um eine kurze Tour entlang der Wümme zu fahren. Die Temperaturen waren deutlich unter Null und Rauhreif und Nebel überall. Das ist gut dachte ich, denn die Landschaft am Deich kenne ich in und auswendig, so kann ich sie nicht oder wenigstens anders sehen.

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Es war so kalt, dass sogar der Stacheldraht an den Weiden der kleinen Wümme gefroren war. Durch die begrenzte Sicht fühlte ich mich allein auf der Strasse, keine Wanderer, Landwirte oder gar Radfahrer waren zu sehen. Und die Wümmibillies waren zuhause geblieben oder hatten sich in ihren Lauben verkrochen.

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Die kleine Wümme, da wo „DeliveranceDeliverance“ gedreht wurde.

Der Nebel ist so dicht, dass man das Gefüh hat durch Gelee zu fahren. Schnell geht das gar nicht, auch nicht auf dem Wümmedeich. Kommt dennoch und überraschend ein anderer Rennradfahrer in Sicht, so stachelt das den Ehrgeiz an sich an den dranzuhängen. Wie im Sommer.

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Über kleine Umwege dann nach Haus gefahren um pünktlich zum Abschluss des Tages in und mit Shanghai zu telefonieren. Rechts der Strasse liegen gerollte Strohballen. Sie sehen aus wie Kunstrasen mit Rauhreif. Die Landschaft wurde komplett mit diesem belegt, einige Ballen sind übrig geblieben.

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Bester Hintergrund für ein „Bike leaning against something“ Foro

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Hier sind die Straßen nun auch komplett in Weiß. Prima, denke ich mir, Zeit sich wieder mal auf die Fresse zu legen und etwas komplett unvernünftiges zu tun.

Komplett unvernünftig wäre es nun noch den „Le Stra“ Kriteriumskurs zu fahren. Nach kurzem Kopfschütteln nehme ich von der Idee Abstand und fahre nach Hause. Wenn es denn unbedingt sein muss, kann ich ja dort noch etwas geistiges Stabi Training machen.

Strava

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3 Kommentare

Eingeordnet unter 2016, Bremen, Mob, Touren

Martini. Deluxe.

Das Design und die Farben älterer Rennwagen, wie z.B. der von Gulf gesponsorten Porsche Langstreckenrennwagen oder Martini Rallye Wagen gefällt mir ausgesprochen gut.

Das nächste Carbonarbeitspferd im Stall wird, wenn alles gut läuft ein Gulf-Design bekommen. Die Idee ist weder von mir, noch neu, einige Hersteller haben bereits ähnliche Designs auf den Markt gebracht, wie z.B. State Bicycles Undefeated Le Mans.

Hier noch eine sehr schöne Martini Variante von Deluxe mit einem Video im entsprechenden Zeitgeist.

Leider ist auf der Deluxe Website nichts davon zu finden.

Das hat jetzt gar nichts mit dem Thema Design, aber sehr viel mit Zeitgeist zu tun: Letztens machte mich Andi auf eine ZDF Aspekte Sendung aus den Siebziger Jahren aufmerksam, in dem die Geburt des Punks in England wohlwollend zur Kenntnis genommen wird.  Der Bericht ist mittelprächtig interessant, zeigt er doch ein bislang nicht gesehenes Interview mit den Sex Pistos, mit Siouxsie vor den Banshees und Wilko Johnson von Dr. Feelgood. Großartig ist hingegen die Anmoderation durch jemanden der aussieht wie meine Französischlehrerin Frau Otten. Wenn man das sieht und dazu diesen freundlos heruntergeleierten Mix aus Kunstkulturgehabe und korrekter sozialdemokratischer Interpretation hört …. ich frage mich, wie ich diese freundlose Zeit überhaupt überleben konnte. Nie wieder werde ich schlechte Worte über RTL2 etc. schreiben.

Aspekte Punk in the UK

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Laufradsatz.

Ein altes Projekt. Ein Laufradsatz mit Campagnolo Veloce Naben für Achtfach Kassetten und Campagnolo Omega 20 Felgen. Alles neu, ungefahren, zusammengespeicht mit DT Swiss Competition Speichen. Für Schlauchreifen. In die Ecke gestellt.

Heute auf Wunsch aufgebaut mit gelb/schwarzen Vittoria Corsa Evo KS Schlauchreifen und Tufo Schlauchklebeband. Ja ich weiß, das macht man nicht, sondern man muss irgendwelchen krustigen Klebeschleim um Mitternacht unter drei Eichen im Vollmond anrühren und diesen 7 Jahre lang auf der Felge und dem Reifen eintrocknen lassen. Nur dann wird ein Reifen nie Zicken machen und niemals vor Wut von der Felge springen.

Bilder vom Aufbau

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Auf den Felgen sind zwei Aufkleber, ein großer Campagnolo Aufkleber (siehe oben) und ein weiterer mit der Typenbezeichnung Omega 20. Der eine ist von links, der andere von rechts richtig herum lesbar. Wo ist nun die schöne Seite des Laufradsatzes? Ich habe mich beim Vorderrad für die eine, und beim Hinterrad für die andere Seite entschieden. Die Schlauchreifen hingegen haben nur eine schöne Seite mit Vittoria Label.

Und die Vorderradnabe ist so eingespeicht, dass man vom Lenker aus das Campagnolo Logo richtig herum sieht. Keine Ahnung, wie da die Regeln sind, weiß das jemand?

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Das sind moderne Novatec Schnellspanner. Den Hebel kann man herausdrehen. Und im Portemonnaie mit sich führen. Wieder ein paar Gramm gespart.Aber vor allem wird es schwieriger die Laufräder zu entwenden.

 

 

 

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Regeln.

Retrogrouch Rules: Proper Bike Setup

Want to start an argument with fellow bike worshipers? Try to establish some „rules“ for proper bike setup. Of course, bike set up can be a very personal thing, and ultimately, the only „rule“ that really matters is if something works for a person and lets them ride their bike comfortably. But some bike setups just seem to look „right“ and probably work pretty well for the majority of people – and if something deviates too muchfrom the „ideal,“ it can look pretty odd, and it’s often a sign that the bike doesn’t fit properly, or perhaps the bike’s owner doesn’t know any better. I mean, if someone’s bike has a saddle tilted at some extreme angle, it’s possible the owner has arrived at the unusual position after many miles of trial-and-error and has found that it’s the only position that lets them ride happily for miles upon miles. But more likely, the person is a noob who has no idea why his various body parts are going numb after a ride of only a couple of miles.

The subject of the „right“ setup will probably never garner universal agreement, but it can generate some interesting discussion. One well-known polemic on the subject can be found on the Velominati site (see The Rules) and the subject was recently discussed at length on the Classic Rendezvous Google group. It can be fun to hear different people’s opinions on the „proper“ setup — and so here are my Retrogrouch Rules on Proper Bike Setup.

Collector Kevin Kruger has a lovely old 1960s Galmozzi that I featured here on the blog last year. Looking at photos of the rest of Kevin’s collection on Flickr, I couldn’t help but be struck by the fact that most of his bikes (and he has quite a collection) are superb examples of how a classic road bike should be set up. Take this Colnago for instance:

For a classic steel race bike, it would be hard to find fault with this.

Saddle:

There ought to be a law against
this.

Should be level – or at least close to it. Some people may need a small amount of tilt forward, or back, but more than a couple of degrees of tilt either way is often a sign of inexperience, or poor bike fit. For most riders, nose too high leads to numbness in the genitalia. Nose too low leads to sore hands, neck, and shoulders. I see a lot of street „fixies“ that have saddles tilted drastically nose down. I don’t know if that’s got something to do with a riding style that relies on performing mad skids, or unusual brakeless dismounts, but either way, it’s apparent that the bikes aren’t actually ridden in any practical sense.

For saddle height, the old rule in the classic era was a „fistful of post“ (maybe 4 – 5″) though on road racing bikes from at least about the ’70s and later, because of evolutionary changes in geometry, expect to see a little more than a fistful. Larger frames will often have (and/or need) a little more seat post showing than on smaller frames. But on a classic steel road bike, having a whole lot of seatpost showing (like 7″ or more) is a sign that the frame is probably too small for the rider.

Bars:

There are a number of variations on the classic drop bar – some with deeper or shallower drops, some with ramps that are roughly parallel to the drops, and some that have ramps that dive steeply to the brake levers. It seems to me that most of them look best when the drops point down slightly from level, with the bar ends pointing in the vicinity of the rear brake. This has a practical reason, because when riding down in the drops, having a bit of a downward angle makes for a more natural hand/wrist position for most riders.

On a classic road racing bike, like the Colnago shown above, the tops of the bars might be somewhere between 1 – 3 inches below the top of the saddle. On a more touring-oriented bike, the difference in height would likely be less. More than 3 inches in difference is another indication that the frame might be too small for the rider. Yes, some people like to „slam“ the stem all the way down to the headset, but on a classic steel bike, I think that looks affected.

Brake Levers and Cables:

Line up the lower tips of the brake levers with the bottom of the handlebar drops. The way I do that is with a straight edge (a piece of aluminum flat bar stock works well) and a rubber band. I affix the straight edge to the handlebar end using the rubber band. It then projects forward at the same angle as the drops, and I can then adjust brake lever position so they just touch the straight edge.

Not „too much“ cable! If the cables exit from the top of the brake levers, as opposed to aero routing under the bar tape, then there should not be huge loops of cable springing up over the bars. Enough for a smooth arch, and enough that the cables don’t bind when the bars are turned or the brakes are applied. Also, it just looks „right“ if the arches of cable on the left and right are balanced. It can help to start with the front cable — get a smooth arch from the lever to the brake caliper, passing up and over the bar. Then get the rear cable to match the size/height of the arch up front – cross the cables behind the bars – then work on the arch at the rear of the bike too. Again, smooth, not too much cable. It should exit the rear cable guide gently in a continuous arc. Too long, and there will be double curves. Too short, and it will pull or bind when the rear brake is applied.

If it worked for Eddy. . . 

A lot of riders from the baby boom era or earlier like to say „if it worked for Eddy . . .“ So here are Eddy’s brake cables:

Smooth, even arches. No huge loops of excess cable.

Wheels, Quick Releases, and Tires:

On a classic steel road bike, black sidewalls are practically a crime against nature. It’s possibly acceptable on a bloated carpet fiber frame with carpet fiber rims – but looks bad on a classic vintage road machine. When using clincher tires, the tire labels should be lined up with the valve stem. That’s not just an aesthetic affectation — it can help when it comes time to locate and fix a punctured tire. On sew-ups, the label placement is up to the mercy of the manufacturer, but to the best of my knowledge, many of them line up that way (though not all of them). Labels should be visible/readable from the drive side of the bike.

On a bike with horizontal dropouts in back, I’ve seen different recommendations for wheel placement. Some reputable and well-respected enthusiasts insist that on a racing bike, the wheel should be as far forward in the slot as possible, giving the shortest possible wheelbase. I’m more of the opinion that it should be centered in the dropout, so that the line of the seatstay intersects the center of the wheel axle. To my eye that just looks best.

Quick release location is practically a religious issue, but I have my preferences. Functionally, I think it best when the lever is closed so that it is roughly parallel to the fork blade in front, or the seatstay in the rear. It is easier to close the lever when you can wrap a hand around the lever and the frame member, and easier to open it again if it doesn’t cross over the frame member. Visually, it looks good when both of the levers point to the rear of the bike, so I find that acceptable.

Again, refer to Eddy. . .

Eddy’s front QR lever points back to the rear wheel. His rear QR points up at his saddle, roughly parallel to the seatstay. However, he wasn’t always consistent with that. I’ve seen photos of Eddy racing where both levers pointed to the rear of the bike, and a couple where the front lever pointed upward, roughly parallel to the fork blade.

What is unacceptable to my eye is a front quick release lever pointing forward. It just seems unnatural. Oh – and quick release levers should be on the left side of the bike unless you’re running Campagnolo Cambio Corsa gear changers.

Disclaimers:

Taking a close look at my ’73 Mercian, I’m thinking I might need
to trim a little off those brake cables. Otherwise, looking pretty good.

OK – as I’ve already mentioned, the only rule that is truly inviolable is the one that says that the setup should work for the rider. Also, these rules mainly apply to classic steel bikes up to the late ’80s – or at least designed to emulate the classic look and proportions. Obviously, modern bikes with their bloated frames and sloping top tubes will have nearly a foot of post showing, and their shallow drop „anatomic“ handlebars with integrated brake/shift levers won’t adhere to the rules, either. Touring bikes and dedicated commuting rigs have a different mission in life, too, so many of the Retrogrouch Rules simply don’t apply.

Do all my bikes strictly adhere? Well, looking closely at them, it might be possible to find a discrepancy or two here and there, but it’s pretty clear that these aesthetic considerations are something I strive for when I build a bike.

Anybody got anything to add to the list?

via Retrogrouch

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Eingeordnet unter 2016, Design&Fashion, Mob, Uncategorized

Last November Vids/Phts

Photofinish

fotofinish

via Milano Fixed

8bar Road to Milano Part 1

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Eingeordnet unter 2016, Mob, Sex. Lies & Vids, Uncategorized